By Pete Schumer
What began as a simple visit to Kyoto’s Daitokuji temple complex became a quarter-century mystery — and, finally, a moment of rediscovery.
While visiting the historic Zen Buddhist site in 2000, I’d heard whispers that one of the 24 subtemples housed a rare and beautiful Go board of great historical significance. After several attempts, I tracked the location to Ryogen-in, only to find the board missing. Locals at nearby Go clubs speculated it had been stolen.
I let the mystery rest for years, even as I returned to Kyoto many times. But on a recent visit, I saw that Ryogen-in was open again. Inside, in a secure glass case, was the long-lost Go board — along with matching bowls bearing the Tokugawa family crest.
A priest confirmed the story: the board had indeed been stolen and was recovered after the thief, caught stealing a sword from another museum, confessed. Now safely back on display, the board carries remarkable provenance — said to have been used by Tokugawa Ieyasu and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, with instruction from Honinbo Sansa, whose seal appears on the board’s underside.
Though glare from the display case marred my photos, the moment was deeply satisfying. A personal Go quest, decades in the making, finally complete.